Can You Use Rit Dye Over Again
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How can I tie dye with RIT dye?
Are you sure that'due south what you want to exercise?
If you want brightly dyed cotton wool shirts, you should always use fiber reactive dye, rather than all-purpose dye. All-purpose dyes, such as Rit® Tint And Dye, Tintex® High Temp Dye, and other brands, can never be as bright or long-lasting as fiber reactive dyes, when used on cotton or other cellulose fibers.
Rit® make dye, similar all brands of all-purpose dye, is a mixture of two kinds of dyes - an acid dye, which volition but wash out of cotton, since acrid dyes work merely on animal fibers such as wool, or on nylon (but not on other synthetics) - and a direct dye, which is duller in colour and bleeds a bit with every single washing, forever, unless a mail service-order permanent dye fixative such as Retayne® is applied.
This is a fine idea for nylon fabric, though! The acid dyes in all-purpose dye are more than satisfactory than the cotton wool dye in all-purpose dye, and acid dye tin can commonly dye nylon.
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Jacquard Tie Dye Kit
Rit Tie-dye Kit
All-purpose tie dye kits do non work equally well as other kits.
All-purpose dye
fades quickly in the
wash, compared to
fiber reactive dye.
Acid Dye:
the best choice for dyeing wool or nylon, and works bang-up on silk, too
How to do it, anyway
All-purpose dye requires a completely different recipe from cobweb reactive dyes. Practice not follow the recipes found elsewhere on this web site! They work only with cobweb reactive dye.
All forms of all-purpose dye, including Rit® Tint and Dye, Tintex® High Temp Dye, DEKA L® Hot Water Dye, and Dylon® Multi-Purpose Dye, crave a considerable amount of moist heat to adhere to cloth. This means that the usual tie-dye squirt bottle technique is right out: information technology merely will non piece of work properly. For instructions, see the Rit Dye spider web site - but be sure to kickoff acquire some Retayne® or a similar production to make the color permanent! (Come across below.) Instructions are too given beneath, as the Rit® spider web site was unavailable for most of 2002. They are much more cumbersome than using cobweb reactive dye, merely if yous insist on using all-purpose dye, you lot'll exist far improve off using the correct instructions:
- Tie. First tie the shirt as usual.
- Gloves and tongs. Wear thick rubber, vinyl, or silicone gloves for the following steps, to protect you from the potential toxicity of the dye and to help protect you confronting the scalding hot water. Use tongs to agree the garment partially submerged in the scalding hot dyebath, but be sure that they are rustproof, as rust can ruin your project. Chrome-plated kitchenware is especially prone to rust.
- Fix dyebaths. Following the package instructions carefully, set up a separate dyebath, by mixing dye with water and salt, in a cooking pot (which is Non to be used for food once again, as the dye is not safe for human consumption) for each color of dye.
Heat. Each pot must exist heated to be quite hot, preferably to a simmer (190-200° Fahrenheit, or 87-93° Celsius), not as hot equally a full eddy, for the dye to make its best association with the cobweb.
Salt. Include the full corporeality of salt recommended, ideally an amount that weighs one-half as much every bit the weight of the fabric beingness dyed.
Vinegar is neither necessary nor helpful for dyeing cotton with all-purpose dye, but should be used when dyeing nylon or dyeing beast fibers such as wool. The manufacturers of Tintex® Loftier Temp all-purpose dye recommend the apply of 1 cup (250 ml) of white vinegar per 10 liters of h2o when dyeing wool, silk, or nylon. - Dipping the textile in the dyebath. For multiple colors on one garment, the garment must be only partially submerged in each dye color. Dip the tied disk of the shirt partially into the simmering dye + water mixture. For pastel colors, you tin hold the disk of fabric partially submerged for every bit footling every bit iv minutes, simply for bright or dark colors, up to thirty minutes is recommended. BE Conscientious - hot water can inflict serious burns! Libation water will not provide long-lasting or vivid results, however.
- Rinsing. Later on the fabric has been partially immersed in one color for long plenty, remove it from the dye bath and rinse the freshly dyed portion with absurd water until you run across no more dye in the water that runs off. Use a towel to clasp out as much of the remaining water as you can.
- Repeat the above steps with another portion of the shirt, to use a different color of dye, overlapping partially, if you like, to go a mixed-color region. Alternatively, traditional tie-dye involves dropping the tied garment into the simmering dyebath for the full recommended fourth dimension, then untying, washing out and applying ties in another design, and dropping into a different color of dyebath.
- Finishing. Remove the ties or rubber bands and rinse the shirt out with cool h2o. Finish by washing with a special dye fixative such equally Retayne, as otherwise the dye volition gradually launder out every fourth dimension you wash it. For best results, anything dyed with all-purpose dye should exist considered mitt-washable in cool water, though motorcar washing is okay after Retayne has been used.
(Are you sure you lot wouldn't rather use common cold h2o fiber reactive dyes, with the safe, quick, easy squirt canteen technique?)
Alternatively, you lot may apply your all-purpose or direct dye mixed with a small amount of water, permit to dry out, and then wrap in unprinted newsprint and steam your shirt over humid h2o for one-half an 60 minutes or longer (later on the water comes to a boil), in a covered pot, just as you would steam vegetables. Practice not bake or use other dry forms of heat; dye requires the presence of moisture in society to bail to fiber. Note that even afterwards heat-setting, both all-purpose dye and directly dye will tend to fade badly in the wash unless finished with a cationic dye fixative such as Retayne. Note that some color bleeding is inevitable in the kickoff rinsing and during the Retayne treatment, if the dye is not sufficiently set; it is difficult or impossible to get truly bright results with contrasting colors, when tie-dyeing with all-purpose dye. For the brightest and clearest results, always use fiber reactive dye for tie-dyeing.
Subsequently dyeing with all-purpose dye, exist certain to finish your dyeing by applying a production to prevent it from running with every launder. Such products include Retayne®, Dharma Dye Fixative®, and Aljo Pro-set PCD® later-treatment. These products are sometimes available at your local quilting supply store, but normally must exist purchased by mail; see Sources for Supplies. Retayne® is a cationic bulking agent that substantially glues the dye into the fiber, making the washfastness of even direct dyes quite acceptable later on it is applied.
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Last updated: July 29, 2008
Folio created: August viii, 2002
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